Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Xi'an pronounced she-an

As I can't view my previous posts in China for some reason I can't quite remember where I was up to. Beijing, before going to the Forbidden City I think. Anyway, it was pretty cool. And huge. 9,999 and a half rooms. Not all open to the public. Some of it was under restoration due to the Olympics next year, as with a lot of places in China, but it was still pretty cool. Very impressive and surprisingly odd, like China itself. How anywhere could have a huge area of decadent buildings and temples that the general public can't go in is just odd. Especially when everyone outside is poor as hell and the emperor is living in quality surroundings with as many women as he could possibly know what to do with.
Some of the old Chinese rituals are pretty wacky. For instance, you don't really want to work for an emperor who dies, which they all do eventually, because you'll be ritually killed too. You don't want to build a tomb that the emperor is buried in either. Because afterwards they make you drink wine which destroys your vocal chords so you can't tell anyone where he's buried. I'd rather not bother getting involved myself.
Another thing I've noticed here is that everybody has the same colour hair. Which I think is why I'm such a freakshow here. Everywhere we go we get stared at and we've been asked to be in quite a few photos with Chinese people. Pretty disconcerting.
We had to see the great wall so at the last minute before leaving we booked onto a day tour including a burial tomb and some other crap 'shopping' thing that was clearly tied into the tour guide's contract. He was cool though, looked a bit like Jackie Chan. We had 2 hours on the wall over a mountain called Badaling. It was steep. We started at one point and walked over the frickin mountain in the intense heat to come back down the otherside to meet our guide. It was really good. The views were spectacular, and for one I didn't realise the Great Wall of China had steps on it. It was amazingly steep though, some of the steps were huge. Definitely a cool experience and something you've got to do. We met a cool Australian couple on the tour too, ended up walking most of the wall with them. They were a good laugh and also very kind to let us go back to their room afterwards so we could put our bags there whilst we went to the public showers. It's really hot here. We also went to a Jade factory, a traditional tea house and a silk shop. They all basically show you the process then try and flog you stuff. The silk and tea shops were the worst. In the silk shop there must've been 50 staff and no customers. Which meant we had the surreal experience of strolling round looking at stuff we weren't interested in whilst 10 Chinese girls walked behind us. Everywhere we went. Eventually we found our way out once the tour guide turned up, it was a proper maze, he seemed embarrassed by the whole thing.
So that evening we go on the train for an overnight sleeper to Xi'an, the old capital of China. The train journey was 11 hours so we got into a 4 bed compartment. Quite comfy as it happens and not too pricey. We were waiting for ages to see who would join us and eventually a mid 40s Chinese guy came in. He didn't look happy at all to be in the compartment with two westerners. Especially when he realised we couldn't speak Chinese. After a few phone calls and a lot of puffing and sighing he left, never to return. He muttered 'not popular' in English when he left. I dunno whether he meant he wasn't popular or we weren't. Anyhoo, the attendant came in and told us no-one else would be coming into the room, which was excellent.
In the morning as I woke up to the sunrise on the way to Xi'an. I got to see loads of the countryside and the odd city. It's a beautiful place, but it has it's drawbacks. I kinda grew to like Beijing but not too much. There's something about the whole place that is good but also very bad. It's strange for sure.
We arrived in Xi'an at half 8 in the morning and instantly a different prospect to Beijing. Much cleaner, more modern, not as humid(just plain hot as hell), a lot less cheats, proper licensed taxis and no-one(hardly) speaks English...at all. Luckily we learned some hand signs in Beijing and now we barter quite a bit, there are tourist prices for everything so almost anything can be bargained for. The Chinese are all about the money and when they see us they think we have pots of it, and I suppose we do in comparison, so they'll try and rip you off as best they can. Not so much here in Xi'an though. I quite like the place but I'm ready to move on. We've an internal flight booked to Shanghai, preferable over the 15 hour train ride(this country is massive).
One thing I have seen here that's worth a note, we went to a Chinese theme park, as many in china they are based around Chinese history(this one called 'Tang Paradise' after the most successful period in Chinese history), and we were the only foreigners there. At the end of the day was a huge waterfall/movie/firework display. They actually projected images onto water. It was very weird but way cool. Again we got laughed at a lot and asked to be in photos but it's not as bad here as in Beijing.
Today we went to see the Terracotta warriors. If you don't know much about them I will explain. In 1974 a farmer digging a well out in the countryside found some clay artifacts. It turned out to be one of the best archaeological finds ever. An estimated 6000 life-size clay crafted warriors and horses were buried in a tomb for one of the most famous emperors in Chinese history, from 2 and a half thousand years ago. It's pretty huge. It took 470,00 men to build it all. It was wrecked when the emperor died though so they've had to piece together all these warrior dudes. Each one is totally unique. It's pretty amazing to think about but not that great a spectacle. They still have a lot of excavation work to go so it'll keep changing for decades. Got to see it while I'm here though because I can't imagine wanting to come back to China for a while. I'm glad I came and saw the place but I wouldn't just come here on holiday.
I best got off to have a full meal and a couple of beers for 70p. Classic.


Probably the hottest day on the trip so far. What you need to do is stand by a waterfall and look inconspicuous!


Datafurong Park. A themepark for the Chinese. Doesn't look anything like Alton Towers.

6 comments:

Stace said...

Looks like an interesting year and a good opp to create a great blog. Keep up the good work and safe travels. (I wish I'd kept a blog when I was travelling last year... but the travelling itself was always more interesting!)

Anonymous said...

"So far, so good" it sounds Gav. I'm stunned by the exceedingly well-written travel blog. Who would've belied it could have come from the typing fingers of someone who never wanted to write for me (but I know that the subject material is 1000% more interesting!!!). Or is someone else writing it for you???

Anonymous said...

Good on you Gav you sound as though you are having a whale of a time, better than sitting behind a computer all day. You go boy.

Chris

Linda said...

Gav get your hand in your pocket and buy some web time please. Everyone is waiting for the next history lesson with bated breath!
I take it that Pete is your ex boss so I can assure him that Gav has hidden talents(probably won't believe me as I'm Gav's mum!)

Anonymous said...

Hi Gav
What did i tell you about being ripped off by a taxi in Beijing! Keep writing,it's bringing back some fantastic memories. Glad ur safe and well. Lou

Gavin said...

Getting ripped off is just what seems to happen here. It's all part of the learning curve though and I'm learning fast!