Further toward the centre of America is the almost unmentioned and oft overlooked state of Nebraska. Heading south through Nebraska there are no highways or interstates so it's back road driving all the way. Nebraska is known as a bit of a dull state but contributes massively to the American economy. The rolling farmlands here, that are currently undergoing controlled burns to rejuvenate the land, cultivate much of the beef, pork and corn that America consumes. America loves it's corn. If you've ever tasted American chocolate you may have wondered why it's so utterly terrible. This is because it's main ingredient is corn syrup. This awful ingredient is in almost everything they make and generally complete crap because of it. They have maple syrup, without any hint of maple as it's corn syrup. There's butter substitute, corn spread, there's non-dairy creamer, main ingredient of course corn syrup solids. Look at any chocolate bar and a corn based product will be first on the list. Have a drink of fruit juice and more often than not high fructose corn syrup is in it. I'm not sure if this explains the absolutely dire breads and pastries here but the majority of food is definitely some of the worst we've had on the trip. But saying that we can't afford fine dining here so I'm sure there are improvements somewhere. Oh to be eating in Argentina again.
The quiet back roads of Nebraska provide an insight into the backbone of the country, sort of. To be honest it's fairly bland but at least the people seem friendly enough, judging by the waves we keep getting from the local cap wearing pick-up truck drivers.
In the middle of nowhere we come across an old fort, Fort Robinson, that has a chequered history. This place was a German prisoner of war camp but before that was a Native American prison. Cheyenne Indians were held here when they'd fled their reservations. Some Indians escaped the Fort and were soon massacred in the following chase and battle.
Further down the road laid across the yellow grassy plains we stop off at another National Park. We had no idea this place existed but it provided a bit of a break from the mundane driving. Fossil Agate National Park is home to some ancient fossil finds from animals that exist nowhere else on earth. Animals lived around here and were wiped out by years of drought, or so it's thought, and never to return. The ranger tells us about his meeting with David Attenborough and how this site assisted in the making of one of his BBC documentaries.
20 million year old fossils are all well and good but our real destination is the Rocky Mountains. We pass through Wyoming to get there and yet again reach 'Colorful Colorado', a very apt state slogan.
Coming towards the jagged high peaks of the American Rockies, the mountain range runs into Canada, we follow a flowing river of run-off snow melt and are plunged into a world of shrouded mountain peaks and wildlife bounding around without a care in the world. The clouds move quickly over the mountains and the weather changes from bleak to sunny in minutes. The wind is whipping around us and is chilling to the bone to boot. We stop in a small and quaint enough town on the edge of the park and put off any walks for the day after. As so often has happened in the last few weeks when we peer out of the window the next day the scene has been changed by yet more soft snow.
We walk to a place where many rocks have been deposited from a lake on a higher elevation in a flooding a few years ago. The wall of water created from the flooded lake pushed it's way down the mountain killing a walker and flooding the town we stopped last night, Estes Park, in 6 feet worth of water.
The snow is coming down off and on as we take a long walk through the forest besides a stream that at points is completely covered with this powdery white stuff. Wind blows up and down the valley and we see snow being blown off trees around and on us as well as clouds of snow being pushed into the air across the mountainside. The whole area is stunning. Colorado gets off to a good start, it's just a shame that at this time of year the highest road in America, that traverses the Rockies, is closed due to snow. Seeing the place at this time of year makes up for it though.
So, Coors is crap. It's made here in Colorado and the Rockies are depicted on the beer bottle itself. To be honest I've not had it for years so really I should make another judgement while I'm here but I just couldn't bring myself to it, damn American beer! One last thing that I can't shake off from here was the incredibly annoying driving from the American buffoons here. It's a National Park so no-one should be in a rush to get anywhere but people still drive right up my exhaust pipe even when I'm doing the speed limit. There's frickin deer bounding around here and still these idiots are overtaking me on blind corners, genius!
Thursday, May 22, 2008
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